To break the rules, you must first know their limits.
Antoine Lie - ALOE
Looking back at Antoine Lie's perfume creations also means tracing the journey of a changing industry that has its ideals from an artisanal to an industrial model.
Antoine still felt he was free to create and experiment within this increasingly industrial model when he composed commercially successful hits: Armani Code, Ralph Lauren Romance for Men, Versace Crystal Noir. Controversial fragrances such as Sécrétions Magnifiques and Rien for État Libre d’Orange represent a rebellious time for Lie, who saw that after 2000, it was clear the perfume industry would continue to prioritize profits over creativity, relying too much on consumer testing in the creation of perfume. As a fully independent perfumer who is now free to work with innovative perfume houses and brands, Antoine is excited to be a part of a new wave in perfumery.
SÉCRÉTIONS MAGNIFIQUES - ETAT LIBRE D'ORANGE
This infamous fragrance attempts to express what scent your body would create when you’re feeling a strong emotion, to reveal outside the body what’s happening inside. Invisible emotions are revealed in olfaction: Blood, saliva, tears, sweat and sexual secretions. The idea is you can hide what’s happening on the outside, but not inside. I love its anti-marketing position. What I revealed in SM might be scary or repellent to some, but I think the name is more shocking than the fragrance itself. And it doesn't matter, because to me it is the celebration of true beauty
BRUMA - CIRE TRUDON
This resurrects the leather chypre family, which tends to be dismissed as uncommercial.’ Believe it or not, the President of Cire Trudon and his team, in addition to the perfume brief, organized a hypnosis session for me as they read a story and showed me pictures and drawings related to the fragrance they wanted me to create. Really unusual, as I like it!
ROSE DE JAMAL - LES INDÉMODABLES
This is a unisex rose with Moroccan ingredients like Atlas cedarwood, geranium, aromatic mint, and an overdose of rose absolute —5 percent! It’s an homage to the unsung heroes of perfumery, those who produce the crops for the materials we use. In this case, Mr. Jamal Chaboun. Without the work, passion, and knowledge of men like him, we wouldn’t have the great palette of perfumery materials we have.